Belfast

Belfast is a city still feeling the effects of the Protestant and Catholic feud that began long ago. It is literally split down the middle by a 60 foot wall with gates automated to open and close at certain times. Though the Troubles have been left behind for many years, people who have lived in Belfast for many years still carry the memories of loved ones being negatively effected through the violence which ensued from the conflict. On one side of the wall there resides the Catholic Nationalist population, while on the other resides the Protestant Loyalist population. The trust between these two people groups has not yet been repaired, and so the wall continues to stand.

Due to the violence that occurred during the time of the Troubles, the economy of the city similarly felt the repercussions. Families were all fairly poor, so the common type of house that existed was called a two-up two-down. The name gives away the meaning; it is simply a house with two rooms upstairs and two rooms downstairs. Commonly, there were bedrooms in the upper level with the kitchen and bathroom downstairs. Especially in the case of the Catholic families, these small homes could house as many as 15 people, possibly more. Today in Belfast, the Catholic side of the city is in great need for more housing because the Catholic faith does not allow for contraceptives. Therefore, they tend to have many more children. When driving on the Protestant side of the city, there was an empty plot that had sat empty for many years. If that land sat on the Catholic side of the wall, it would surely be used for housing. This demonstrates one of the differences that exists between the two populations.

Instead of hearing about Belfast from Brian, we got the chance to hear from a man born and raised in Northern Ireland, Noll. Noll is a local man from Belfast who has been giving tours around the area for a number of years. Upon joining our group on the bus, he gave us a tour of the Shankill area, telling his stories and giving a glimpse to what life has been like in Northern Ireland for the past 50 years. Noll was likely once a member of UVF (Ulster Volunteer Force), which was a military force to combat the IRA (Irish Republican Army). Noll was heavily involved in the fighting between these two forces in the 80’s and has since been through many years of prison and turned away from violence. His experiences and stories have greatly impacted the lives of many and brought reconciliation to the people who once were on opposing sides.

To give example to the nature of the violence in Belfast, Noll gave us a new definition for the phrase, “tit for tat.” This phrase in Northern Ireland has a definite negative connotation, given that it is our equivalent for the term “drive by shooting.” People would drive cars from their side to the opposing with a couple passengers that would shoot blindly at passersby. This, unfortunately, was not an uncommon occurrence.

We visited several locations on the tour through the different parts of Shankill, including the Unionist side of the peace wall, several murals throughout the town, and a memorial to those who lost their lives in the feuds between the Republicans and Unionists. These locations are popular visiting spots because of the history involved with them as well as what they represent to the community today. Over two million people came from all over the world to visit the peace wall over the past year. These murals and graffiti tell the stories of those who fought and lost their lives defending their sides of the wall. One of these murals is of a past UVF fighter who lost his life in a feud between two protestant groups. The local neighborhoods are very sensitive to this type of expression, and these murals are treated with respect. The times surrounding the Troubles in Northern Ireland were extremely violent, and there is still large amounts of tension today. Reconciliation is a process that is taking place currently, and history is being written each and every day as peace is being sought.

PERSONAL RESPONSES

Grace: Belfast was a very sad city. This is the first time I have ever been in a place that has been war torn, and the hard reality is that there is still significant tension. My mood sobered substantially as Noll told us story after story of how the Troubles affected the people in the city of Belfast. How could I-- someone who has never experienced war-- ever comprehend what this place was like 20 years ago? It was a tour I will never soon forget because it gave me much needed perspective on what really happened here. I am very thankful that we were able to hear both sides of the story from both Brian and Noll, and I am encouraged to see the growth that Belfast will continue to have as the years go by.

Erin: Belfast was a very interesting experience. The attitudes between the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland are very different, especially in Belfast. There is still so much fear and tension in the city. Hearing both sides of the story from Brian and Noel  was an eye-opening experience. Actually driving through the city and visiting the sites that Noel spoke about made it seem all the more real. The murals, the wall, the gates - it all shows how broken and hurting the people of Northern Ireland, and Belfast in particular, still are. 

Rae: It is strange how differently things feel between the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland. This feeling was emphasized through visiting Belfast. The division in the city seems something taken from a fictional novel. I have a difficult time with the fact that there are peace gardens sprinkled throughout the city, but people are still entirely distrusting of each other. I can say with certainty that I have never been in a city like Belfast before. Hearing the history (which is still continuing into daily life now) of the city from Noll was eye-opening. It is hard to believe that he was once a part of its violence past. Though many of the issues have been resolved, the wall stands not only as a physical barrier, but also as a relational one. I would very much like to see the walls come down, but I have no idea as to how that would occur. Noll believes that only the people themselves will decide when the wall will come down, and that seems entirely logical. This site left me feeling much more thoughtful than any before due to its past vague and tenuous nature.

Isaac: Driving through Belfast was a very sobering experience. It was very different from any other sites we have visited thus far. As we drove through the streets on the Republican side of the Peace Wall, there was a sense of grief when we saw the height of the wall and the memorials for people who have lived so recently. So many men, women, and children have lost their lives in this feud that has brought so much violence to a place restless with feuds and division. It was strange to see a wall that is still functioning, and closing at 11:30 each night, that is dividing and even contributing to the peace between the two sides of the town. This is not a problem that is completely of the past, but is still


being figured out today. At the end of our tour with Noll, he mentioned how Belfast and the surrounding areas has one of the largest rates of suicide among young people in Europe. Despite Nolls insistence that it has nothing to do with religion or politics, I can’t help but think that it has everything to do with this. The entire area is filled with grief; from the ‘peace’ wall to the completely concrete infrastructure to the memorials around every corner. There was scarcely any joy among the concrete blocks and rubble left from bombings. I would imagine it very difficult to grow up in a community with a religion that is more political than anything else and feuds that are unavoidable. History is still being written in Northern Ireland, and I believe it will be some time before a permanent solution will be figured.

Dunbrody

William Graves began a trading company that sailed from Ireland to Northern America. At first, the 15 ships they owned were only in the business of trade. However, it became a transporting business once the potato blight struck in Ireland. One third of the Irish population was dependent on

the potato crop, and so the airborne disease left much of Ireland desolate and empty. Over one and a half million people died from starvation or starvation related diseases. Because of this, over 200,000 people emigrated between 1846 and 1847. William Graves brought many families out of their impoverished lives in Ireland to a new land of new beginnings.

Captain John Williams, a Welshman, was just 27 when he took over the Dunbrody in 1848. He was to be the captain of that ship for the next 20 years. He was paid a salary of around 100 pounds a year. The ship itself was built in only 6 months and was originally due to depart for New York on 3rd of April, 1849, but by April 7th the ship was still lying at anchor in the port-- loaded and waiting. The weather prevented the vessel from leaving the dock, but there was also a problem with stowaways coming aboard the ship. Williams, unlike many captains of famine ships, seemed to genuinely care for his passengers. When the passengers got sick he would personally nurse them back to health in order to not encourage the spread of disease.

During the Great Famine in Ireland from 1845-1851, impoverished families sought emigration to America and Canada in order to find a better life. They were fleeing the famine-covered lands that would eventually see the disappearance of over a million and a half people. The population before the famine was near 8 million; the population after was nearly 6 million.

The cost of passage was 3-4 pounds, which was equivalent to two months wages for a tenant farmer. For over thirty years, the Dunbrody sailed back and forth across the Atlantic, carrying passengers to North America and returning with timber, cotton, and grain.  

Not all the Dunbrody passengers had a choice about their journey - some were paid to emigrate by landlords who wanted rid of them while others were sent abroad to ease overcrowding in workhouses. When the famine struck the land of Lord Fitzwilliam of Wicklow, the Lord offered his tenants the option to either stay and starve, suffer in the workhouse, or take a free ticket to Canada. From 1847-1857, 6000 men, women, and children left the Wicklow land to start a new life overseas.

The Dunbrody was sailed by a crew of 12-15 men. The crew included the first mate, a team of ordinary seamen and apprentices, and young boys taken to learn the ropes. Also on board was a cook, a carpenter, and a sailmaker. Many of the crew were Irish, but as the Dunbrody sailed around the world, crew members of other nationalities joined the ship such as: Hamburg, Germany, Orlando, Florida, and even Southampton in England.

Today the replica of the Dunbrody represents the hundreds of ships that carried the stories of thousands across the Atlantic. People can come see the conditions that were forced upon individuals escaping the certain death of the famine in search of a better life. It is important to remember the lives of those who perished on the arduous journey, and also those that survived and flourished in their new lives.

PERSONAL RESPONSES

Grace: I very much enjoyed how informative this tour was, and it gave me real perspective on what the Famine was really like for all who emigrated. This journey was hellish to hear about, but being inside of a real ship that transported these people made it all real to me. It was a sobering place for me especially knowing that this event is still prevalent in the hearts of the Irish people. I did have a bit of a laugh though because there were reenactments by some actors portraying actual ship passengers--- and they were not good. I struggled to stifle my giggles as they gave their monologues, and it definitely lightened the mood of the site visit for me.

Erin: Learning about something in a classroom and actually seeing the reality of it are quite different. In a classroom setting it is easy to separate yourself from the horrors and inhumanity of a situation, but seeing the living conditions and hearing about the hardship of living on a ship really made the journey real. The people who lived during the Great Famine had to have been incredibly strong and determined, and I find that admirable. It could not have been easy to have to leave your home and everyone you know to go to a new country with no money, friends, or guarantees of prosperity. The more I learn about the Irish people, the more they amaze me.

Rae: Going to this site brought about the reality of the harsh living conditions present on famine ships. What really hit home for me was seeing the bunks at the bottom of the ship. Fitting entire families in such small places with such little hygiene is unpleasant to say the least. I felt fairly confined in the ship, so to think that 400+ people would have stayed in those cramped quarters made me grateful for our reasonably sized group. Though the visit may not have been pleasant, the “townspeople” that we met at the end of the tour brought about a new perspective. To say that this was a pleasant trip would be a lie as it left me feeling somber, yet it left me feeling entirely fortunate for the many blessings I have in my life.

Isaac: The experience at the Dunbrody was unforgettable. When we walked onto the ship, we were told that at times, nearly 500 people were squeezed onto a ship this size to sail across the Atlantic. The conditions of the ship were terrible for everyone involved, especially the middle-class travelers who could afford to escape the horrors of the famine in Ireland. Upon entering the lower level of the ship, we saw the types of conditions that over a hundred people would have to live in for the journey across the sea. The quarters were tight, and often times sickness was inevitable. Those who were on the top bunks were lucky to avoid the disease seeping down onto those in the the lower bunk. If they were able to survive the journey, the men, women, and children were often left alone in a new world to fend for themselves. To remember the stories of what happened in Ireland during this period was significant in understand the country’s history, as well as realizing how blessed I am to have the securities I have in my country.

Kilmainham Gaol

Kilmainham Gaol was a former prison in Dublin that was in use from the 1780’s to the late 1920’s. In the 1960’s, the prison underwent heavy restoration and officially opened as a museum in 1966. In 1986, Kilmainham was handed over to the State for care by the OPW. It is most notable in Irish history for being the institution where the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising were held and eventually executed by the British. There were 16 leaders held in captivity here, and 14 out of the 16 leaders were executed by firing squad. These executions were the catalyst for anti-Unionist sentiments amongst the people of Ireland, and it eventually led to the separation of the country from England and the of the Republic of Ireland being established in 1937.

The gaol standing now was built to replace the original gaol because of the poor, unsanitary conditions; however, it was not long after Kilmainham’s opening that it too was brought to a similar state of uncleanliness and poor sanitation. There was massive overcrowding, no true separation between men, women and children, and, during the time of the Great Famine in Ireland, many people were actually seeking to be put in Kilmainham simply to be looked after and fed. This overcrowding eventually led to mass deportation of prisoners to Australia, with the youngest deportee being a 14 year old girl. During this season of the jail, the rooms originally meant to hold one prisoner often accommodated up to four or five prisoners. The inmates were forced outside for one hour each day to exercise, which involved walking silently in circles in a single file formation. The prisoners were also typically forced to do labor, which consisted of stone-breaking for men, laundry for women, and cleaning of the gaol for children.

In May 1916, immediately after the 1916 Easter Rising was quelled, Kilmainham Gaol was reopened to house the hundreds of men and women who took part in the rebellion. Between May 3rd and May 12th, 14 men were executed for leading the Rising. The first executed was Patrick Pearse, who was commander and chief of the rebels. The other thirteen executed include Thomas Clarke, Thomas MacDonagh, Joseph Plunkett, Edward Daly, Michael O’Hanrahan, Eamonn Ceantt, William Pearse, John McBride, Michael Mallin, Sean Heuston, Con Colbert, Thomas Kent, Sean MacDiarmada, and James Connolly. One of the leaders, Joseph Plunkett, was given permission to marry his fiancée, Grace Gifford, in the chapel of the gaol just hours before his execution.The last of the 1916 prisoners were released under a general amnesty in June 1917.

Irish opinion on the Easter Rising was not particularly positive as the Rising was happening, but the British made a grave miscalculation when they executed the leaders. The Irish people had a complete 180 degree change in public sentiment when they realized that these 14 men were killed without trial and without any announcements of the executions occurring. What was once a failed rebellion became a mass martyrdom for the Irish people. What was once a primarily Unionist country now became fiercely Republican. The public was furious with the British government for this injustice, and the deaths of these leaders sparked the nation’s move towards independence. Now the Easter Rising is because of the bravery of those involved and to honor those who died in battle or were executed unjustly. The Republic of Ireland is now separated from British control, and this is in no small part due to the events that unfolded at Kilmainham.

PERSONAL REFLECTIONS

Rae: Kilmainham Gaol was the most unique experience yet so far in Ireland, especially in terms of blog sites. Though all of the sites have been relevant to important history in Ireland, Kilmainham Gaol was by far the most impacting. After learning extensive material on the 1916 Easter Rising, being in the jail where so much began was an experience I will never forget. The jail itself was haunting and gray with little natural light. We went to the upper level of the jail to see the cells where all the leaders of the 1916 Rising were kept, which were modest and unadorned. Coming to the end of the tour outside was sobering to realize we were standing where so many powerful people were executed. This site finalized all the historical facts and lessons we had learned thus far, which has still proved to be valuable in encountering Ireland in everyday life.

Isaac: Visiting Kilmainham was a great experience. I did not entirely know what to expect when we arrived, but I was looking forward to learning more about the jail and experiencing the space where the leaders of the 1916 Rising were held and executed. Upon first entering the jail, we were lead to the museum where we were able to read some of the history of the prison and about those who stayed there. One of my favorite experiences from the day was walking through the hall containing the letters from those executed to their lovers and family. It was powerful to see what these men wrote and what they gave to those they loved before they were killed by the British power. It is interesting to look at it from a future perspective, knowing how the executions caused a ripple effect of nationalism among the Irish people which eventually led to the treaty and independence of Ireland.

Erin: This was my second visit to Kilmainham Gaol, my first visit being back in 2012. I had visited around the Easter holidays that time as well, but the atmosphere was very different this time. Four years may not seem to make a big difference, but this year was the centenary of the 1916 Easter Rising. That really put things in perspective. When I toured the prison this time, I actually had a grasp on what the guide was telling us and knew who the people she described were. Seeing the cells where the leaders of the Rising were held, standing in the courtyard where they were executed, reading the last words they wrote to their loved ones -- it all became so much more real. I can understand how the executions of the leaders caused such high emotions and set the nation on fire for their freedom.

Grace: Kilmainham Gaol was a sobering experience for me. This is a place where the executions of the 1916 leaders happened, and this is where the nation of Ireland as we know it today began its largest movement to become independent. So much history and tragedy has happened inside these walls-- how can I possibly put into words how overwhelming that is? I stood on the spot where 13 individual men were taken, blindfolded, and then shot to death. I saw the crosses, I saw the plaque commemorating the victims, and I suddenly felt very small in the world. 100 years ago this happened, and the men didn’t know if their cause would ever be successful. I can imagine them smiling on the Easter Rising Celebrations from heaven because all of this fanfare was taking place in a free country. So much to process from this visit.

Christ's Church Cathedral

Christ’s Church Cathedral was established by the vikings in 1030 A.D. and has continued to be a central church for the people in the area ever since. It was originally built in a Romanesque style, but when the ceiling collapsed in 1562 it was rebuild in a more Gothic style. This incident also smashed Strongbow’s tomb, which has since been replaced. The three walls of the choir’s section still remain from the original structure. Even the tiling in that area is original, and our tour guide told us of a duck that wandered onto the wet pavement and his centuries-old footprints remain.

Our tour guide gave us an exclusive trip up to the belfry, which Diana has not done before. We learned about the bells, including “Big Martha” which weighs about two and a quarter tons. After cheekily telling us that there are no rules limiting the ringing of the bells, we all took turns ringing the cathedral’s bells. The town of Dublin could hear our wonderful music from up to two kilometers away.

We were then taken down to the crypt, which is one of the oldest in both Ireland and the UK. There are two corpses in the crypt: those of a cat and a rat. They met their tragic demise during a chase and got caught in the pipes of the cathedral’s organ. Inside the tomb, there was also gold that was given as a gift from a wealthy king (probs). They also have one of the oldest copies of the Magna Carta, called the “Black Book”. It is one of the popular attractions for tourists and is located across from the giftshop. They also have costumes from the popular TV show, The Tudors, because they filmed in Christ’s Church.

Christ’s Church is still significant because it is still fully functions as a Church of Ireland with weekend services. It is the timekeeper for the city, ringing its bells every fifteen minutes and on the hour, and it is a popular tourist attraction which draws in thousands of visitors each year. Most importantly, it still stands as an everlasting symbol of how faith is central to Ireland’s population (literally).

PERSONAL REFLECTIONS

Erin: Christ’s Church Cathedral was one of the most beautiful churches I have ever seen. The architecture, both inside and out, is stunning. The stained glass windows and tiled floors were a couple of my favorite parts of the church. I really enjoyed the tour of the bell tower, and it was so exciting to have the opportunity to ring a cathedral bell. How many people can say that they have done that? Our tour guide was so witty and knowledgeable, and he really made our tour enjoyable.  

Grace: I loved visiting this site! I had two main highlights of the day: ringing the bells and seeing the costumes from “The Tudors”! I loved how cheeky and funny the tour guide was along the way, and I felt like I learned so much along the way. When we went to the belfry I was absolutely delighted that I was able to ring the bells, and they were so heavy that I was lifted off the ground every time I pulled the rope! How cool to think that we gave the city of Dublin a minor headache on a random Wednesday afternoon! I shouldn’t have been so excited about the costumes because there was an insanely old copy of the Magna Carta behind me, but I really loved that show! Admittedly, I was so excited that I cried. This site was just so old and full of history. I feel like I gained so much information in such a short time-- I am still processing all we learned.

Isaac: Christ’s Church Cathedral was absolutely beautiful. When we arrived at the cathedral, we waited in the main naive and admired the beautiful architecture. The intricacy and detail in the design was absolutely beautiful. As we were taken around the cathedral throughout the tour, I was excited to see the next room and see more of the structure. Learning about the history and past of the church was also quite interesting. After seeing the different parts of the cathedral on the ground floor, we went up to the bell tower, and was able to ring the bells of the cathedral. We then traveled down to the basement where we learned about small connections the cathedral has with modern politics, culture, and other events. The tour was a great experience!

Rae: After seeing many ruins of beautiful buildings in ruins whilst in Greece, seeing Christ’s Church Cathedral standing with such ornamentation was a great experience. It was really interesting to see the ribbed vaulting in the ceiling and the organs in the church. I found it entirely horrific that there were a mummified cat and rat in the old organ, but I suppose it’s interesting despite its gruesome nature. Going to the belfry was exciting because we got a good view of the city. Also, it was wonderful to ring the bells. I’m sure the people of Dublin were not as enthused as we were. The crypt was eerie, but it had a lot of interesting artifacts to look at. All in all, I would say it was a successful day in Dublin.

Muckross House

The Muckross House was built in 1843. If you break down the word, “muck” means pig, and “ross” means peninsula. Despite its inelegant meaning, Muckross is truly a beautiful estate. It consists of 26,000 acres of protected land. Much of this is now the Killarney National Park. Throughout the grounds there are trails, gardens, arboretums, and greenhouses. Muckross was given to Ireland in 1964, and it has been used as a museum ever since.

The house has been renovated many times for either special guests requiring improvements or to make it more appropriate for tourism. Queen Victoria’s visit in 1861 was expensive to say the very least. The family was given 6 years notice of Queen Victoria’s visit, and became nearly bankrupt due to the renovations. She arrived with an entourage of roughly 100 people. After all the money was spent and the house was ornately decorated for the royal visit, Queen Victoria and her husband Prince Albert only ended up staying two nights..

The house itself has many interesting features, such as the bells. Almost every room in the house was equipped with a bell that was used to alert the servants of a need. There are 34 bells in both the basement and the attic, and each one was a different size to specify which room was calling. Each servant was specified to certain quarters of the house, where they were responsible for any needs or favors. They were restricted from other rooms in the house, and often did not even know of what was happening elsewhere. Twenty-two servants in total worked at the Muckross House, and extra hands were hired in the event of a special occasion or visitor. There were many features of the house that were tailored to help hide the servants from the lives of the residents and their guests. For example, a decorative crystal window was installed above the staircase to hide the view of the stables and the workers. The servants also had their own staircase so as to avoid running into the owners of the home. The house was outfitted with electricity around 1911, and also had its first electric chandelier installed one of the main halls. Roughly seventy percent of the furniture that decorates the house today is from the residents that lived within its walls.

There seems to have been a divide between men and women that was much more present in everyday life. There were many rooms that were limited to either men only or women only. For example, the billiard room was for the men only. While the men were in the billiard room, the women would wait patiently in their boudoirs. The main reason that women avoided the billiard room was due to the fact that men often smoked inside. The women did not want their nice clothing being ruined. In fact, wealthy women of this time period were the first people to stop smoking.

The Muckross House is still significant in two main ways. One, it rests in the middle of one of Ireland’s biggest national parks, and the government works hard to preserve all the incredible animal and plant life that resides in the area. The second reason it is significant is because it holds a love/hate relationship for the Irish people in the area. It was built amidst the horrible potato famine as a way to display the lavish wealth of the English in comparison to the poverty and starvation of the native Irish. It lasts now as a symbol of British reign in Ireland, but the Irish people have warmed to the historical relevance of the house. It isn’t so much of a power-status anymore as it is a way for the Irish people to remember their past. Even if it unappreciated by many, at least it has a universal aesthetic appeal of the 19th century architecture.

PERSONAL REFLECTIONS

Erin: Muckross House was beautiful, and both its architecture and history were stunning. The decorations were gorgeous, but I found it a bit disconcerting that the family would go bankrupt just to cater to the queen’s desires. Times were different then, though. My favorite part of the visit to Muckross House, however, was being able to walk through the gardens and arboretum. I love that there are over 26,000 acres of protected land around Muckross House that have been turned into Killarney National Park.

Grace: My favorite British monarch has always been Queen Victoria, and I have always seen her as a very influential and powerful female figure in history. It was fascinating for me to be in a country where that is not necessarily the public opinion on her reign. More than that, it was so wonderful for me to be able to step in a house that was richly decorated for her, and that she stayed in (even if for only two nights). For me it was the equivalent of buying a tissue of my favorite celebrity on Ebay-- just the thought that I was touching something that they touched was really cool. I loved how wonderfully preserved the house was, and I honestly felt sort of wealthy just standing amongst the lavishly decorated rooms. The national park around the estate really emanated God’s presence in nature. I felt so serene walking around the gardens, and I hope that someday I can come back and experience this lovely site again.

Isaac: Our visit to the Muckross House was beautiful. From the beginning of our arrival and time spent in the garden to the end of the tour through the house, I was amazed to see the design of the landscape and architecture from hundreds of years ago. When we first arrived at Muckross, I was able to walk around the property and the arboretum. The grounds were beautiful and I can only imagine what it must have been like during the prime era of this house when the residents and their guests were out and about enjoying the views. I thought it very interesting that the house was designed and decorated in the Victorian style, because Queen Victoria only stayed in the residence two nights. However, this applies even more emphasis on how important the queen’s visit was to the estate. I find it fascinating but also quite disturbing that her visit was planned for six years and nearly caused the family to go bankrupt. This took shows the significance of a visit from the queen. The decor of the house and was absolutely beautiful and gave visitors a taste of what life was like during the 18th and 19th centuries.

Rae: Being raised in a modern Victorian home, it was stunning to see a Victorian house of the age. The architecture was extravagant and detailed, so much so that I could spend at least an hour in each room looking at the designs and the furniture. The chandeliers were crystal, the walls were velvet, and the billiards table weighed three tons. It was truly a life of luxury. Not only was the house beautiful, but the grounds were as well. The arboretum was a place I could wander in for the entirety of a day. I loved the elegance and beauty of the Muckross house, and I think it speaks to the high society of Ireland 150 years ago. It was a wonderful experience that I wish I could share with my mom because she would love it even more so than I.

Newgrange

Newgrange is the oldest site in Ireland dating back to 3200 BC. Though its purpose is unknown, the general consensus is that it is either a tomb or a ritualistic site for the Neolithic people who lived in the area. Newgrange is located in Boyne Valley where the Neolithic people settled due to the rich soil, plant life, animal life, and timber in the forests. The location of the valley also offered a place of natural protection, similar to an island, with the river and high ground acting as a border around the community. The river seemed to have been a vital resource to the neolithic people, both spiritually and physically. From the river, they were able to draw their water and fish, as well as use it to transport goods and building materials. This river was also symbolized as a division between the real world and the “other world”.

Newgrange is a passage tomb, and this type of building is common with the fringe societies of Europe. Other passage tomb sites are located in Portugal, Spain, the south of France, and the Scandinavian countries. A passage tomb is a megalithic monument with a central cross-shaped chamber inside. Its main features include a kerb, a passage, a chamber, and a mound. The kerb consists of 97 stones. There are a number of carvings along the walls, but archaeologists today are unsure of whether the carvings served as an early form of writing or simply an artistic purpose. The chamber is dark within as natural sunlight is prohibited from entering, except for a very specific time of the year. The most amazing feature of this passage tomb is the upper window above the entrance that emits the light from the dawn of the winter solstice to illuminate the chamber inside for only 17 minutes.

The purpose of this architectural masterpiece is unknown, but there are many theories on why only one day a year the chamber is brightened by the morning sun. One theory is that it helps symbolize new birth and ultimate transcendence. Another theory is that the light helped serve as a calendar for the Neolithic people who used this building. It is impossible to know, unfortunately, because there was no written language or record from this time period. The only concrete evidence for the purpose of this amazing structure is that there have been human remains discovered along the floors of each chamber. This is why many believe that Newgrange was a burial site; it is also quite possible that it was built for ritual sacrifice to the gods. When we asked our tour guide about his thoughts on the purpose of this ancient place, he simply responded that he felt that there was something sacred about it, and that its purpose was for transcendent and holy reasons. He told us how in local Irish legend and folklore the area surrounding Newgrange was associated with the Tuatha De Danaan (people of the goddess, Danu), which were supernatural beings who settled and ruled Ireland before the Celts arrived. It is said that the chief deity, Elcmar, used Newgrange as his home and married to the goddess Boann, who was the river Boyne.

This site is significant in modern Ireland because it helps harken back to the country’s rich heritage and folklore. It helps demonstrate that even in the Stone Age, these people were highly intelligent and industrious. This monument is older than the Pyramids of Giza and even Stonehenge, but the interior remains in near perfect condition from when it was originally constructed over 5000 years ago. The Irish have struggled with their identity as a country for hundreds of years as they have fought invaders and kings who claimed the land as their own, but a site like Newgrange helps Ireland remember a time when their country and culture were united. It is also important to preserve these sites because oftentimes in our modern society we view the people of the past as less intelligent or unimportant, but even without the technology of our age, the Neolithic people here were able to construct a monument that has stood for 5 millennia. It has baffled even the most intelligent minds on how they managed to build such a monument. It is a site that can truly humble all that come to visit.

PERSONAL REFLECTIONS

Grace: I am left in awe and wonder after leaving Newgrange. The area it sits in is astoundingly beautiful and untouched by man. Despite the reconstruction that happened during the excavation, I cannot believe that this ancient place is still in the same condition it was when the Neolithic people were finished with it. I had a wonderful conversation with the tour guide afterwards, and his reverence for Newgrange was so inspiring. He had worked at this monument for 20 years, but he told me that he still is working through the mystery of the place every time he enters. It was almost intimidating walking into the passage because I felt like I was approaching something sacred and special. I had chills through the demonstration of the winter solstice sun. There is a secret in Newgrange that will never be answered, and I left the place feeling a sort of burden of that knowledge. What was it used for? Why did the people spend so long building it? What was the purpose of the winter solstice light? And my biggest question of all: Why was it constructed in a cross-shape? Only God knows the answers, and I can’t wait to ask him someday.

Erin: Newgrange was not like anything I have ever seen before. Even though I got a little claustrophobic when we entered the tunnel, I was still able to appreciate the design and how well the interior has been preserved. Even though we only saw a simulation of the winter solstice, it was still breathtaking -- quite literally as I was almost hyperventilating at this point. Despite the claustrophobia, I thought Newgrange was stunning; not just because of the architecture but also the ingenuity and dedication of the Neolithic people who built it.

Rae: After spending all of January looking at temples in ruins, Newgrange is a breath of fresh air. Its age and status in this present day is entirely amazing. Though we only saw a simulation of the winter solstice light, it was captivating. It is easy to understand why the sight emulates a sense sacred space. The brilliance in the engineering of the structure is incredible. It is difficult to understand just how ancient this monument is because it seems so new and beautiful. I would most definitely go back to experience the atmosphere present there.

Isaac: Newgrange was absolutely stunning. The condition of the interior for its age is incredible, not to mention the architectural genius of the structure. Upon entering the tunnel, we immediately had to squeeze between to rocks and duck from the cross beams supporting the walls. Once we got to the end of the tunnel, I was a bit surprised that the center room was not larger, but as we spent time admiring the structure, I was thoroughly impressed. Our tour guide the turned off the lights, and we were able to see how the natural sunlight shines all the way into the depth of the tunnel. It is incredible that with the limited technology during the time it was built, they were able to tell exactly where the sun would shine on the winter solstice. For about 17 minutes they were able to have the warmth of the sun illuminate the deep, dark room. It was also very interesting to see the ways in which they lived their daily lives 5000+ years ago as farmers, hunters, and craftsmen.

Trinity College: The Book of Kells and The Long Room

Trinity College has a very unique beginning. The land was originally owned by a monastery, until it was bought by Queen Elizabeth I in 1592. She commissioned it as a Protestant university. Trinity is the first university established in Ireland, and now educates over 17,000 students every year. It is 47 acres and 1 kilometer in length. It was originally built outside of the Dublin walls, but now it sits at the heart of the city, as everything has developed around the university.

It was the first university to grant women with degrees. Ironically enough, the man impeding women from graduating with degrees, Provost George Salmon, had a daughter who graduated with a degree shortly after his death. Now there are two female students for every one male student at the university.

Trinity famously houses the Book of Kells, a large, decorated text made in 800 AD, in the Old Library. The pages were made of calfskin, and the inks were brought all the way from modern day Iraq. It was given to the university in 1661 in order to rebound and preserve the precious manuscript. The book was recently rebound by the university into 4 volumes -- each volume being one of the Biblical gospels (Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John). Today, two of the gospels are displayed at a time for visitors to observe; one book open to a textual page, and the other book to an ornamented page to give the viewers an accurate depiction of the rest of the Kells manuscripts.

The Long Room was built between 1712 and 1732, and it is the longest single chamber in the world. It houses many artifacts including the oldest harp in Ireland, (which is the national symbol of Ireland, the Guinness logo, and the Irish currency), one of the last remaining copies of the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic, and 14 marble busts created by famous sculptor Pieter Scheemakers. Within the library, roughly two-hundred thousand of the library’s oldest books are housed, and are still available for checkout by university students today. The books are ordered not according to the Dewey Decimal System, subject, or genre, but rather by size. The larger books are housed on the lower shelves, and the size of the book decreases with increasing shelving height. This keeps the library aesthetically pleasing as well as helping with the efficiency of space. Therefore, students desiring to check out books must know the exact dimensions of the book.

Today, all three of these things (Trinity, The Book of Kells, and The Long Room) hold significance for both cultural and historical reasons. Trinity is one of the most prolific and praised universities in the world, and has a continued tradition of excellence since its establishment in 1592. The fact that Trinity holds the Book of Kells shows its devotion to the preservation of historical artifacts, and helps educate all that walk through about the importance of remembering the past. The Long Room shows how Trinity has a passion for the beauty of learning. There are many aesthetically pleasing aspects of the Long Room, and this was absolutely intentional in order to display these old, wonderful books. In all, we loved our experience here, and recognize how important Trinity is to the cultural heart of Ireland.

Personal Reflections

Rae: Though the entirety of the campus was entirely beautiful, I most enjoyed seeing the Long Room. The Book of Kells was a lovely thing to see, especially since I learned about it through Western Art History. However, the Long Room was impressive in its size and also in the books that it housed. Also, I find it absolutely amazing that the university is so old and yet it thrives still today. It is in the center of Dublin, and is therefore an integral part of the community. Through this experience, I have better come to understand the importance and prominence of Trinity University.

Isaac: The entirety of Trinity College was absolutely stunning. From the entryway at the front of the University to the residential buildings that over a hundred years old. It was fascinating learning about the history and origin of the college, such as George Salmon’s influence until his death, which finally allowed for the acceptance of women. The contrast of architectural styles of very intriguing, including the library in contrast with its neighboring natural science museum. The intricate architecture was baffling, as each decorative aspect was unique and not repeated. The Book of Kells was quite impressive, and it was great to see it in person after learning so much about it. My favorite aspect of our visit was the Long Room, and the impressive architecture and ordering its walls. The size was shocking, and beauty of the design and order was impressive. I thoroughly enjoyed this visit, and have come to appreciate the history and future of Trinity College.

Grace: I think I want to transfer now. Trinity College is astoundingly beautiful, holds so much history, and is at the center of Dublin. What more could I look for in a college? All jokes aside, I really enjoyed the incredible historical significance of the university, and wished that I could take more time to explore. The Book of Kells and The Long Room were both things I have wished to see my whole life, but never actually believed that I would witness in person-- they both took my breath away. I couldn’t believe how old the Book of Kells was, and how remarkable the condition of it was in. To think that something so valuable and precious as this manuscript was written as a celebration of Jesus’ life just fills my heart with joy. It couldn't be more appropriate! And the Long Room? W O W. I had chills for the entire time I was there. I could have sat in that room for hours taking it all in. The whole experience at Trinity was wonderful, and I learned so much. I really hope we can go back soon!

Erin: Trinity College has a beautiful campus and an intriguing history. Although the university is home to over 120 different nationalities now, it was originally only accessible to Protestant males. The population of the university has grown and expanded over time, but the campus has remained the same for the most part. Many of the buildings are hundreds of years old, and there are even a few Oregon Maples that are almost as old as the building. Two of my favorite buildings on Trinity’s campus are the Old Library and the Museum Building. The Old Library houses the Long Room, which is absolutely beautiful -- everything from the smell of the old books to the way the sun streams in the windows. The Museum Building has beautiful carvings of native Irish plants and originally housed all the samples of plants and animals.