Glendalough Monastery

In Wicklow County, there is an eleventh century monastery called Glendalough. It was founded by Saint Kevin in the eighth century. The original structures built in the 8th century by Saint Kevin have since deteriorated because they were all wooden structures, but the 11th century stone replacements still remain in shockingly good condition. The four standing buildings were surrounded with graves ranging from the 11th century all the way to the present. There is the famous round tower, the Saint Peter and Paul’s cathedral, Saint Stephen’s church, and the abbot’s house.


The Glendalough round tower is over 30 meters tall, the doorway being three meters off the ground, and there are four windows at the top of the tower each facing North, South, East, and West. The round tower was thought to be used for a variety of reasons. It was thought to be used as a beacon for weary pilgrims, the height helped demonstrate the wealth of the monastery, it protected valuable objects, but mainly it was used as a bell tower to mark the five daily times of prayer for the monks. In Ireland, there were over 100 round towers thought to have existed at the same time, and now only 67 are still standing. They are important to modern Ireland because they are a standing symbol of the original Irish monasteries before all religious institutions were designed in the Romanesque fashion. If you were to put your back against the door of the tower, you would be facing the most important building in the monastery. In Glendalough, that building was Saint Peter’s and Saint Paul’s cathedral.

The cathedral was built on original Irish rock, but you can see the progression of Romanesque influence when you view the sandstone detailing on the arches. It is interesting that Romanesque design is seen in the windows and arches on top of the original Irish foundation. This is a prominent example of the conversion from monasteries being purely Irish to being unified throughout the entire European continent. In fact, the 11th century was a very transitional time for Ireland because it was a change from being  independent homesteads and tiny villages to merging with the modern society. The cathedral is the centerpiece and most important structure in the monastic lifestyle, and its design can even reflect the changing atmosphere in the country despite dwelling in a seemingly desolate valley away from civilization.

The most intact building in the Glendalough monastery is the Saint Kevin’s church, and it is also the only church with an original intact roof. The whole building, including the roof, was made of stone. Inside it is barren except for the altar which was the original altar that Saint Kevin used in the 8th century. It is the only surviving piece from the original church Saint Kevin founded. The interior of the church would have been painted in fabulous frescoes depicting biblical stories. These frescoes have not survived all the weathering through the last thousand years, but they were key in helping set an existential atmosphere when one entered the building of worship. The frescoes would have had to be painted quickly due to the quick-drying nature of the plaster, and each one helped add character and color to the church. These are very present in churches spanning the next centuries, and Saint Stephen’s church is one of the earliest examples of such art in Irish monasteries.

The abbot’s house was not a residence as much as it was a modern-day office. The holy relics from saints and priests were kept in this small building; the abbot, who was in charge of that particular monastery, protected the relics and blessed those who journeyed to see them. Relics are still in use today; in fact, the heart of the patron saint of Dublin, Saint Lawrence O’Toole, has been preserved and kept in Christ Church cathedral. Pilgrimages were made to visit these relics because it was believed that by being in the presence of these items one could glean the mystical properties of whichever saint it belonged to. The presence of the relics helped bring people to the church and thereby bringing them closer to God.

PERSONAL REFLECTIONS

Isaac:

The location of the monetary was absolutely stunning, and the two lakes between the valley was a great location for such a site. I was surprised to see such old structures holding together as well as they are. Having learned much about this kind of architecture and art, it was fascinating to see this site with so many examples. I appreciated hearing about their resilient faith lived out in the monasteries, as it was a lifestyle that required extreme dedication and sacrifice. I believe that we can learn much from this lifestyle. We also walked up along the trail up over to the westernmost lake and saw the waterfall at the edge of the lake. The view was beautiful and it was great to see the near exact perspective that the monks would have had over a millennia ago.

Grace:

I thought that this location was incredibly beautiful, and it made my head spin when I thought about how old it was. It was weird to think about all the people who have wandered these ruins, and all the people that used to live and study the gospel here. The valley was virtually untouched by man-made expansion; when one stands by the Upper Lake it is almost as if you have been transported back 1000 years ago when the monastery was founded. I could see why the location was so ideal for a group of people that longed for solitude save only the company of God. It is sometimes hard to understand why people would feel led to move away from society and devote themselves solely to God in a remote environment, but I think now I have a better idea of why this would be so appealing. The only sounds you could hear were the rushing wind and the waves from the lake crashing on the shore. I finally had a moment to take a deep breath and appreciate the incredible unaltered beauty of the Irish landscape. God created this world with a breath. The majesty of this area could only be created by a God with an appreciation for beauty and intelligence. I can comprehend for the first time that living in solitude in the wilderness is more than just being alone--- it is about soaking the gloriousness of God’s creation into our very bones. It is easy for me to be distracted by human creations and devices, and visiting this site helped me see how important it can be to separate myself for a moment and fully embrace the natural beauty of our world.

Erin:

Glendalough is beautiful location where nature and history collide. From an environmental standpoint, it was surprising to see how well the buildings and grave markers are preserved. It was amazing to think how much history is contained in that site; how many people have walked under the arch, how many prayers were recited in the cathedral, how many pilgrims saw the round tower in the distance and were filled with hope. It is easy to understand why Saint Kevin picked Glendalough as his place of silent retreat to God. The beauty and solitude found in that valley reflects God’s presence.

Rae:

Glendalough is a perfect embodiment of the history I was looking forward to seeing in such an ancient country. There were grave markers littering the beautiful green countryside, standing as a testament to its age. The roundtower is an amazing monument that suggests the intelligence of the Irish, and especially the fact that it is still standing intact. The buildings are also beautifully preserved, even without the roofs. St. Kevin’s church was wonderful to see as the roof is made of stone and is one of the very few ancient churches that still has a roof. The short trek to the lake is one that is certainly rewarding. The view was absolutely lovely, especially with the winding waterfall. If all monasteries are this beautiful, I am deeply looking forward to visiting them in the future.